THE OPPOSITE OF GLOSSY

June 19th, 2013

 ”Nobody wants to invade Marseille” claims Rudy Ricciotti,
architect of the MuCEM.

And yet everyone is flocking there since the Museum of Civilisations
of Europe & of the Mediterranean, dubbed MuCEM, opened its doors just weeks ago, the first national museum to open in the Phocean city, a project 11 years in the making. 

Having shot & directed the introductory ad campaign for this new institution, The Stimuleye introduces you to the man who designed it, a man as famous for the fights he picks as the building he designs.
Exclusive photos by René Habermacher.

RUDY_RICCIOTTI_MUCEM_731_THE_STIMULEYE_RENE_HABERMACHER
Portrait of architect Rudy Ricciotti by René Habermacher.

One side is the Fort Saint-Jean, linked to the city by a pedestrian steel bridge. A fort not unlike the Bastille – a bastion to defend Marseille against itself – the Fort Saint-Jean had been closed to the public for centuries.

On the other, also connected by a massive steel bridge, is Ricciotti’s creation, facing the Mediterranean Sea.
Refusing “architectural bling,” Ricciotti chose to have the new building dematerialize itself to complement the Fort Saint-Jean.

No reflections – leave it to the sea.

C1_MUCEM_1333_RENE_HABERMACHER_THE_STIMULEYEC2_MUCEM_1423_RENE_HABERMACHER_THE_STIMULEYE
C3_MUCEM_1362_RENE_HABERMACHER_THE_STIMULEYEC4_MUCEM_958_RENE_HABERMACHER_THE_STIMULEYE
The concrete filigree lace of the MuCEM, a second skin like a screen that allows views, light and air
to pervade the space. Photography by René Habermacher.

TV spot for the MuCEM's launch, directed by Antoine Asseraf with SayWho and Agence White.
BIRDVIEW_MUCEM_1321_RENE_HABERMACHER_THE_STIMULEYE
The MuCEM's a porous monolithic body planted on pier J4 in the Mediterranean sea, connected to the Fort Saint-Jean
with a 115m long slender pathway made of massive cast iron. Photography by René Habermacher.

Antoine Asseraf: Can you elaborate on your theory of world being split between two sides, matte and shiny ?

Rudy Ricciotti: Shiny is conceptual distance, reason, power and self-assurance.
Matte is frontal narration, intuition, defeat and regret.
Pick your side… I did.

AA: Mediterranean is a concept going beyond “local” but stopping short of  ”global” — how do you situate yourself, and the building, within that notion ?

RR: The South is a travel certificate, not a birth certificate.
The inhabitants of Munich are more mediterranean than those of Grenoble.
The Valais region in the south of Switzerland more latin than the Vaucluse in the south of France, etc.
The MuCEM is mediterranean through anxiety and existential difficulty.

AA: What is your relationship to monumental architecture ?

RR: You are talking to me, you fucked my wife ?

A1_MUCEM_623_RENE_HABERMACHER_THE_STIMULEYEA2_MUCEM_919_RENE_HABERMACHER_THE_STIMULEYE
A3_MUCEM_1157_RENE_HABERMACHER_THE_STIMULEYEA4_MUCEM_687_RENE_HABERMACHER_THE_STIMULEYE
Top left: "Notre-Dame de la Garde" looming over Marseille and the the seven-level, 40 000 square meter
structure of the MuCEM. Photography by René Habermacher.
B1_MUCEM_904_RENE_HABERMACHER_THE_STIMULEYEB2_MUCEM_640_RENE_HABERMACHER_THE_STIMULEYE
B3_MUCEM_1347_RENE_HABERMACHER_THE_STIMULEYEB4_MUCEM_796_RENE_HABERMACHER_THE_STIMULEYE
As massive the volume of the MuCEM may seem at first, it is the use of negative space that gives the building
the air of the metaphysical. Photography by René Habermacher

AA: What is the last thing which stimulated you ?

RR: A fish soup made by my partner…
Read my last pamphlet to smile:
« L’Architecture est un sport de combat » [Architecture is a combat sport], edited by Textuel.

MuCEM

With SayWho & Agence White


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HYERES EXPRESS EPILOGUE

May 17th, 2013

The 28th edition of the Hyères Fashion & Photography Festival is over, but the spirit remains…

Featuring jury interviews, concerts and awards, of course.


28TH INTERNATIONAL FASHION & PHOTOGRAPHY HYERES 2013
HYERES EXPRESS
06 AWARDS
07 MOOD

A THE STIMULEYE PRODUCTION
directed by Antoine Asseraf
filmed & edited by Julien Pujol & Thibault Della Gaspera
coordination Clementine Colson
interviews Filep Motwary
sound design Ça Va Chéri


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HYERES 2013 EXPRESS 04 DESIGNERS + 05 FASHION SHOW

April 29th, 2013

Hyères Again. And Again.

28TH INTERNATIONAL FASHION & PHOTOGRAPHY HYERES 2013
HYERES EXPRESS

A THE STIMULEYE PRODUCTION
directed by Antoine Asseraf
filmed & edited by Julien Pujol
coordination Clementine Colson
interviews Filep Motwary
sound design Ça Va Chéri


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HYERES 2013 EXPRESS 03 EXHIBITIONS

April 28th, 2013

Besides the photo and fashion competitions, one of the Hyères festival’s strongpoints are the original exhibitions it curates. Amongst this year’s shows, Lacoste designer and 2002 Hyères winner Felipe Oliveira Baptista, up and coming photo/video/grapher Pierre Debusschere, 2001 Hyères winner photographer Charles Fréger, and ROUGH PROOF, a look at the early works of Guy Bourdin with special pieces from the private collection of Marie Laure de Noailles… of course.

A THE STIMULEYE PRODUCTION
directed by Antoine Asseraf
filmed & edited by Thibault Della Gaspera
interviews Filep Motwary
coordination Clementine Colson
sound design Ça Va Chéri


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HYERES EXPRESS: PIERRE DEBUSSCHERE

April 27th, 2013

Having seen his work evolve over the years, we are proud to announce Pierre Debusschere’s new project premiering at Hyères Fashion & Photography Festival, an installation featuring original photo and video, “I know simply that the sky will last longer than I.”

Pierre Debusschere, Portrait by Filep Motwary.

Is this your first solo show?
I did small solo shows before but i like to think of this one as my first one because it is the first time the work has been thought of for an exhibition medium.

How does it feel exhibiting alongside someone like Guy Bourdin?
It is already an honour to be present at the Villa but even more to be next to Bourdin.

Your subjects-models are worked in a way to look like paintings, what is your aim exactly ?
The painting, the Flemish painters are a big influence for me, there is no specific aim linked to the painting besides the connection to my inspirations.
The technique that looks like paint that you are referring to is there more in the idea layers, different layers that gives the image different steps of reading.

Photo by Pierre Debusschere.

Photo by Pierre Debusschere.

Your show’s theme is beauty versus ugliness. What are your true influences? Is it connected to the work of Umberto Eco ?
Beauty versus ugliness is one of the themes worked in this show, the idea of what is beautiful or ugly today. Yes it is linked to Eco’s work, reading his book
on ugliness helped me a lot in this show.

Your work is tied to the digital medium. Can you imagine yourself working in a previous era ?
For sure I can see myself working in a previous era, it is not about digital, it is more about the medium that fits the time, the idea of NOW.

Photo by Pierre Debusschere.

You have created yourself a whole structure with 254 Forest, which allows you to do an original photo series, a book, an installation and a film… How important is organization to be an artist today ?

Yes I would not have been able without my team to create the photo-series, the book, the installation, the film, the soundtrack and the website !

It is always about Team work for me and I’m really grateful to have them besides me. Organisation is a big part of the work, even more for project like this when we created all this body of work in 2 months. Today you need to be able to react really fast because of the technology era we live in, so that’s why a team is important too !

You need to be present on every aspect of production at the same time ! But then we can not forget sometimes that we need to disconnect ourselves ;)

PIERRE DEBUSSCHERE


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HYERES EXPRESS: PETROS EFSTATHIADIS

April 26th, 2013

Portrait by Filep Motwary.


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HYERES EXPRESS: JOHN MANN

April 26th, 2013

Portrait by Filep Motwary.


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HYERES EXPRESS: GRACE KIM

April 26th, 2013

Portrait by Filep Motwary.

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HYERES EXPRESS: PETER PUKLUS

April 26th, 2013

Portrait by Filep Motwary.


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HYERES EXPRESS: EMILE BARRET

April 26th, 2013

Portrait by Filep Motwary.


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HYERES EXPRESS: EVA STENRAM

April 26th, 2013

Portrait by Filep Motwary.


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HYERES EXPRESS: ANNA ORLOWSKA

April 26th, 2013

Portrait by Filep Motwary.


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HYERES EXPRESS : DAVID FAVROD

April 26th, 2013

portrait by Filep Motwary.


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HYERES EXPRESS: DOMINIC HAWGOOD

April 26th, 2013

Portrait by Filep Motwary.


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HYERES 2013 EXPRESS 02 DESIGNERS

April 26th, 2013

The festival is about to start. In 1 hour the jury headed by Felipe Oliveira Baptista will discover the 10 designers in competition for the first time.

A THE STIMULEYE PRODUCTION
directed by Antoine Asseraf
filmed & edited by Julien Pujol
interviews Filep Motwary
coordination Clementine Colson
sound design Ça Va Chéri


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HYERES EXPRESS 2013/ JURY PREVIEW / IMRAN AMED

April 25th, 2013

One of the most unexpected and influential sites in fashion today is Business of Fashion. Imran Amed, its founder and editor, answers our questions before joining the Hyères 2013 Fashion jury.

Photo by Scott Trindle.

AntoineAsseraf: Along with Industrie Magazine and the rise of the fashion blogger as a class, your blog has drawn attention to a lot of work, which was heretofore considered a bit peripheral to a designer’s raw talent. What do you make of a place like Hyères that still somehow naively stresses the belief that talent will find its own way? If you were to create a Business of Fashion competition/festival, how different would it be?

Imran: At BoF, we firmly believe in the power that lies at the intersection of creativity and business. Both are essential to a successful fashion enterprise, and one can’t work without the other. It’s a true symbiotic relationship. If we were to do a BoF festival therefore, it would be a combination of creative fashion presentation and business plan pitches, and the judges would come from both sides of the industry.

FilepMotwary: It seems to me that many of the young designers who dream of a future in fashion are unaware about “the business” of fashion in general. Should they worry of how things have evolved, and turned the industry into this huge marathon of task, values that need to be constantly re-valued, trends that suffers from the lack of longevity etc…?

Imran: I tell my students that once they start their own business, they will spend 90% of their time managing the business, and only 10% of the time designing. This balance is not something that has necessarily changed in recent years, but it’s true that there is more and more for a young designer to do in the global, digital fashion world in which we live today.

Sean Santiago: The internet and its popular content-sharing platforms, i.e. Tumblr and Pinterest, are destabilizing traditional revenue streams faster than new ones are being created. How will original creative output find funding in the future and do you see crowdsourcing methods such as, for instance, a Kickstarter campaign, possibly becoming necessary to the creation of original artistic output? Or will a big brand always foot the bill when it comes to fashion-related content?

Imran: Brands and designers could certainly fund portions of their businesses — say specific collections or products — via crowdsourcing platforms. But ultimately, I suspect that they will need to turn to traditional forms of fundraising (selling equity or taking loans) in order to fund the business over the long term. A young fashion business is highly cash flow intensive, and therefore will likely require stable and planned funding in order to fuel growth and expansion.

Malibongwe Tyilo: BOF is recognized as one of the boldest voices in fashion writing, often publishing pieces that might not be appreciated by some PR people. Considering how important PR has become to design companies, how does that affect how the design businesses deal with you?

Imran: We are bold, but I believe we are also fair and balanced. Part of the role we see for ourselves at BoF is to surface and shed light on important industry issues that merit wider discussion and debate.

If we can do so in a way that is balanced and fact-based, then most PR professionals seem to respect us for that.

Certainly, there are some who would prefer to control all the communication about their clients, but this is misguided and unrealistic.

28th International
Fashion & Photography Festival
Hyères 2013
April 26>29


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HYERES EXPRESS 01 PREVIEW

April 25th, 2013

Less than 48 hours before the beginning of the festival, we bring you our first HYERES EXPRESS video, a quick preview with the people who make the Hyères Festival – founder and director Jean-Pierre Blanc, photography director Raphaelle Stopin, and fashion director Maida Gregory-Boina.

A THE STIMULEYE PRODUCTION
directed by Antoine Asseraf
filmed & edited by Thibault Della Gaspera
interviews Filep Motwary
coordination Clementine Colson
sound design Ça Va Chéri


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HYERES-EXPRESS 2013 DESIGNER PREVIEW: YVONNE POEI-YIE KWOK‏

April 24th, 2013

Netherlands (25). and last year I graduated from the Amsterdam Fashion Institute graduate (2012). She is now in research of  possibilities to start her own label.

Portrait Filep Motwary.

How does it feel for you being selected for this year’s edition of Hyeres ?
It’s an honor to be selected for one of the top fashion competition in the world. It’s really nice to be in the South of France, meeting new people and working in a nice environment.

How would you describe Hyeres in three words ?
Beautiful, cozy, atmospheric.

What has been your favorite part of the process so far ?
Working in the garden at the Villa Noailles with sunny weather and great surroundings.

In three words, what is your collection about ?
Marionettes, handwork and youthfulness.

In what ways you think participating in a Festival like Hyeres will help you in the future ?
I think it’s a great platform to present yourself internationally. Getting in contact with different company’s, people in the industry and press is a great starting point to start your own label or to work for a fashion brand.

28th International
Fashion & Photography Festival
Hyères 2013
April 26>29


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HYERES EXPRESS 2013 / DESIGNER PREVIEW / XENIA LUCIE LAFFELY

April 24th, 2013

Swiss. Studied history of art and modern French before starting fashion design at the HEAD-Genève. About to start an internship at 3.1 Phillip Lim, with the prints team.

The stimuleye
Portrait by Filep Motwary.
How does it feel for you being selected for this year’s edition of Hyeres?
Three years ago when I came to the festival for the first time, it was love at first sight so to be a part of it today is a great honoured and I’m so touched and excited.

How would you describe Hyeres in three words?
Warm, sharp and respectful.

What has been your favorite part of the process so far?
Drawings and making collage.

In three words, what is your collection about?
Preciousness, sentimentality and drawings..

In what ways you think participating in a Festival like Hyeres will help you in the future ?
It will help me to be more aware of my own work and of the fashion world.

28th International
Fashion & Photography Festival
Hyères 2013
April 26>29


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HYERES EXPRESS 2013 / DESIGNER PREVIEW / HENNING JURKE‏

April 24th, 2013

Germany, Berlin. 28 years old. Studied at The Berlin University of the Arts, gratuated in October 2012. Working on his portfolio.

Portrait by Filep Motwary.

How does it feel for you being selected for this year’s edition of Hyeres?
Being selected feels like a dream came true.

How would you describe Hyeres in three words?
Inspiring, pleasant, fantastic.

What has been your favorite part of the process so far?
To meet the team of the Hyères Festival. It is great to have this people who give the support for me and my work.

In three words, what is your collection about?
Anticipation, melancholia, luck.

In what ways you think participating in a Festival like Hyeres will help you in the future?
The Festival is a great platform to represent me and my work as a designer. The team helps each designer , giving a great support with the shows and also the showroom. I hope to find a job as a designer in a house…

28th International
Fashion & Photography Festival
Hyères 2013
April 26>29

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